Yoshiaki Hiruma is something of a legend in the world of Japanese tea. It is well known that he works almost exclusively with cultivars developed in his home prefecture of Saitama—the lone exception being the ubiquitous Yabukita. This devotion to regional cultivars reflects both his pride in Sayama tea and his belief that the area’s breeding program has produced some of Japan’s most distinctive plants. Yumewakaba, a cross between Yabukita and Saitama No. 9, stands among the richest cultivars in Hiruma-san’s catalog. Medium-plus umami and a soaring grassy lift define the cup, while a floral note—more potpourri than white flower—adds an aromatic complexity that makes a beautiful counterpoint to his other offerings, such as Sayamakaori. This tea is also an accommodating brewer, with less inherent grip or bitterness than many Sayama cultivars and a particularly pleasing hue in the cup. We find it shines when brewed with slightly hotter water, which helps coax out its generous aroma and layered fragrance.
