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A rare lot from the origin of Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong, or lapsang souchong, this elegant tea was produced in Tongmu Village. It’s difficult to gain access to this remote, government-protected area in Fujian Province, but we were fortunate to find a stunning mountaintop farm here in spring 2017. The leaves undergo a unique processing method—withering in a smokehouse, spread on bamboo mats above smoldering local Chinese red pine—then a repeated sequence of rolling and firing. Considered to be the first style of black tea ever made, this traditional version is beautifully balanced, in stark contrast to the mass-produced commodities of the same name. Here, a subtle smokiness complements deep fruit and floral notes, rather than covering the essence of the tea. Notes of cranberry and a pleasant resinous aroma grow with each infusion; savor it through many steeps. Country: ChinaRegion: Fujian ProvinceTasting Notes: lilac, cranberry, pineHarvest Season: Summer 2024