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Mr. Chang embodies the young, electric spirit found in certain rare corners of the tea lands. The Changs hail from Lugu, and in the twilight of the city’s “Dong Ding” heyday, decided to move to new mountains. His organic ‘Shui Xian’ garden sits on two knolls, in a cool river valley, above a maple tree grove—which helps mitigate harmful breezes. Only the most soft and pliable leaves are harvested and deftly rolled into a tight ball. This lot was electric roasted, and the distinct, yet toasty sweetness goes to show for it.