High in the eastern hills of Darjeeling, Tumsong Tea Estate grows the Chinary cultivar bushes that go into this SFTGFOP1 grade — Super Fine Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe, the top tier of leaf grading. The estate sits between 2,700 and 5,500 feet, and the cool Himalayan air that reaches it slows the plants down, which is part of why the leaf develops such layered character. Brewed, the liquor runs pale gold and carries a floral lift of honeysuckle alongside fruity orange notes, a muscatel thread that's the signature of good Darjeeling, some nuttiness, a touch of grassiness, and a brisk finish that keeps the cup from feeling soft.
Tumsong dates back to 1867, when J. A. Wernicke established it as a 200-acre plantation. It has since grown to roughly 186 hectares, absorbing neighbouring land over the decades. The estate takes its name from Tamsa Devi, a Hindu goddess with a temple in the area, and locally it's known as the Garden of Happy Hearts — a nod to its setting and its place in the community. Nearby gardens include Lingia to the north, Mim to the west, and Marybong to the east, and the estate lies about 23 kilometres from Darjeeling town and 17 from Ghoom. Most of what Tumsong produces is exported, so a first flush from here is a fairly small allocation of tea, with second flush known especially for its muscatel character.
To brew it, use water around 85°C — well off the boil, since hotter water flattens the delicate top notes — and steep for about four minutes per 240ml. Push much past that and the tannins start to show as bitterness, so it's worth watching the clock the first time you make a cup. A light hand with sweetener, if any, lets the fruit and floral notes come through rather than covering them.
